An uprooted tree can usually be saved only if it is small: USDA Climate Hubs guidance describes standing a fallen tree back up, with stakes or guy wires until the root system is structurally stable, as an option usually for newly planted trees or trees less than 4 inches in diameter. A larger tree that has fallen with its roots attached, or has started to tip and pull its roots out of the ground, is a safety problem first. The USDA Forest Service field guide to tree risk assessment for Oregon and Washington calls root-sprung trees highly susceptible to failure and says they are often considered failures in progress.
This guide covers fully uprooted trees, partially uprooted (root-sprung) trees, new and old leans, trees hung up on other trees, roofs or wires, and trees brought down by root disease, with species notes for Douglas-fir, grand fir, western redcedar, maple and alder. It applies to homes from Auburn and Renton to Tacoma, and it draws on guidance from the USDA Forest Service, USDA Climate Hubs, WSU Extension, Washington forest practices research, OSHA, King County, Pierce County, the City of Tacoma, Tacoma Power, the City of Renton and the City of Auburn.
The timing matters. The City of Auburn notes that severe windstorms regularly occur in the fall and winter, causing damage that ranges from downed trees to long-lasting power outages, and Pierce County warns that as rain saturates the ground, the risk of downed trees and downed utility lines rises. After the November 2024 “bomb cyclone” windstorm, the City of Renton worked through its list of downed trees by safety priority and reminded residents that the property owner is responsible for clearing trees and branches that fell from private property.
Key Takeaways
- Small trees only: USDA Climate Hubs guidance describes re-standing a fallen tree as an option usually for newly planted trees or trees less than 4 inches in diameter, supported with stakes or guy wires until the root system is structurally stable.
- Root-sprung means failing: the USDA Forest Service field guide for Oregon and Washington rates every lean with freshly disturbed soil or root pulling as very high failure potential and says root-sprung trees are often considered failures in progress.
- Hung-up trees: the same guide rates broken or uprooted trees supported by other trees as very high failure potential for all species and sizes.
- Roots decide it: failure potential is determined by the proportion of sound, structural roots left in the ground. USDA Forest Service urban guidance rates a tree as a high risk of failure when more than 40% of the roots within the critical root radius, 1.5 feet per inch of trunk diameter, are damaged, decayed, severed or dead.
- Root disease: laminated root disease is the most common root disease in western Washington, and WSU Hortsense warns that infected trees may be wind-thrown before above-ground symptoms are obvious, especially west of the Cascades.
- Power lines: Tacoma Power says to stay at least 30 feet from a downed power line, call 911, and always assume the line is energized.
- Cleanup responsibility: in Tacoma, abutting property owners are responsible for fallen trees in planting strips, and Public Works removes only the sections of downed trees blocking the street or sidewalk.
Can an Uprooted Tree Be Saved?
Only small, young trees are realistic candidates. USDA Climate Hubs lists standing fallen trees back up and supporting them with stakes or guy wires as a tactic for developed urban sites, “if possible,” and notes that it usually applies to newly planted trees or trees less than 4 inches in diameter. Beyond that size, the outcome depends on the root system. The USDA Forest Service field guide to tree risk assessment for Oregon and Washington says failure potential is determined by the proportion of sound, structural roots remaining in the ground, and a Washington forest practices study published by the Department of Natural Resources defines uprooted trees as trees that fell with the roots attached, where the roots no longer support the weight of the tree.
For a large tree after a storm, that leaves four practical outcomes:
- Fully uprooted: the tree is on the ground and the work is cleanup, which means cutting the trunk and limbs safely and then dealing with the root plate and stump.
- Partially uprooted (root-sprung): the tree is still standing, but its anchoring roots have been partly pulled out of the ground. Federal guidance says these trees are often considered failures in progress, so the priority is keeping people out of reach until an arborist assesses the tree.
- Leaning but anchored: an old lean that the tree has corrected, with no fresh soil movement at the base, rates far lower and still needs a check for other defects.
- Less severe damage: trees that lost limbs but stayed rooted are the ones guidance favors keeping. USDA Climate Hubs recommends crown restoration pruning for less severely damaged trees and says every attempt should be made to retain and restore amenity trees, especially legacy trees.
Prevention beats rescue. WSU’s Pacific Northwest Gardener’s Handbook puts it plainly: preventing root damage is always a better option than trying to save a severely injured plant.
Uprooted, Root-Sprung or Leaning: What the Damage Means
| What you see | What it means | Next step |
|---|---|---|
| Tree on the ground with its root plate torn out | Uprooted: the roots no longer support the weight of the tree | Safe cutting and cleanup; the root plate and stump are a separate decision |
| New lean with cracked, heaved or mounded soil, or roots lifting on the far side | Root-sprung: very high failure potential, often a failure in progress (USDA Forest Service) | Keep people and vehicles out of reach; arborist assessment right away |
| Lean of 15 degrees or more, top still leaning, no fresh soil movement | Uncorrected lean: medium failure potential, high with root or butt damage | Arborist inspection for root and butt defects |
| Old lean with a top that has turned back upright | Corrected lean: lower failure potential | Check for other defects |
| Tree or trunk resting in the crown of another tree | Hung up: very high failure potential for all species and sizes (USDA Forest Service) | Stay out from under it; professional removal |
| Power line brought down by a tree | Assume the line is energized (Tacoma Power) | Stay at least 30 feet away and call 911 |
| Young tree tipped over, trunk under 4 inches in diameter | May be stood back up and supported (USDA Climate Hubs) | Temporary support, off within one growing season (WSU) |
| Conifer that fell easily, with few fine roots on the stump | Possible root disease, such as laminated root disease (WSU) | Inspection of nearby susceptible trees |
Uprooted Tree Situations, One at a Time
A Fully Uprooted Tree
A fully uprooted tree is one that has fallen with its roots attached, so that, in the words of the Westside Type N Buffer Characteristics, Integrity and Function Study, the roots no longer support the weight of the tree. For a wind-blown Douglas-fir, the root plate that comes up with it is typically broad and shallow. A WSU Skagit County Extension Master Gardener article on hazard trees describes the pancake-like root wad of a wind-blown Douglas-fir and notes that even on big trees, roots are essentially shallow: feeder roots usually lie within two feet of the surface, and the bigger anchoring roots closer to the trunk typically extend down another 2 to 3 feet.
Once those anchoring roots tear, the questions for a large tree are what it is resting on, what is under tension, and how close it is to the house, the street and any wires. OSHA’s Hurricane eTool guidance on tree trimming tells workers to plan each cut, watch for objects under tension, and use extreme care to bring objects safely to the ground. For a tree that landed on a home, follow the steps in what to do when a tree falls on a house.
Downed Douglas-fir needs prompt attention for another reason. WSU’s Pacific Northwest Gardener’s Handbook warns that multiple large Douglas-fir trees (greater than eight inches in diameter) downed by a winter windstorm could allow the Douglas-fir beetle (Dendroctonus pseudotsugae) to become established. Cutting those trees into shorter lengths promptly after they fall speeds the drying of the interior layers so they cannot serve as a food source. The same handbook notes that in western Washington, beetle outbreaks generally kill only a handful of trees. See the bark beetle guide for western Washington conifers for the signs on standing trees.
The trunk and limbs are only part of the job. The root plate and stump are handled as a separate step; stump grinding vs. stump removal explains how the two options differ, and stump grinding covers the service itself.
A Partially Uprooted or Root-Sprung Tree
A root-sprung tree is a standing tree whose roots have been partly pulled out of the ground. The USDA Forest Service field guide to tree risk assessment for Oregon and Washington says these trees are highly susceptible to failure because the anchoring capacity of the roots is compromised, and that they are often considered failures in progress. The same guide links significant leans to root decay or damage, butt decay, or high winds that cause root wrenching, often associated with saturated soils.
The signs are at the base of the trunk. USDA Forest Service urban tree risk guidance says newly leaning trees are often accompanied by soil mounding, soil cracking, root lifting, or root breakage near the stem on the far side of the lean. In these cases, part of the root system failed and the tree started to tip over, but the remaining roots stabilized it, at least temporarily. That guide rates a leaning tree with recent evidence of root lifting, soil movement or soil mounding as a high risk of failure.
Keep everyone well back. The Oregon and Washington field guide sets the potential failure zone for a whole tree on level ground at 1 to 1.5 times the tree’s height, so a 100-foot-tall tree has a failure zone with a radius of 100 to 150 feet. For a tree leaning 15 degrees or more, the zone extends in the direction of the lean and 90 degrees out on either side. A root-sprung tree within reach of a house, driveway or play area needs a tree risk assessment right away.
A New Lean Versus an Old Lean
A corrected lean is an old lean the tree has compensated for by growing a vertical top and reaction wood, and the USDA Forest Service field guide to tree risk assessment for Oregon and Washington gives these trees a lower potential for failure. A new lean often shows at the base as cracked or mounded soil, lifted roots, or broken roots on the side away from the lean.
The guide’s Tier 1 survey ratings spell out the difference:
- Very low: all leans under 15 degrees without freshly disturbed soil.
- Low: corrected leans of 15 degrees or more without freshly disturbed soil.
- Medium: uncorrected leans of 15 degrees or more without freshly disturbed soil.
- High: uncorrected leans of 15 degrees or more with evidence of root or butt damage, without freshly disturbed soil or root pulling.
- Very high: all leans with freshly disturbed soil or root pulling.
Lean angle is not the whole story. The field guide says all leaning and root-sprung trees should be examined for other defects, such as wounds at the base, cracks in the trunk and undermined root systems, because defects interact. USDA Forest Service urban guidance adds that if an established tree leans 40 degrees or more and hangs directly over a target, either the target should be moved or the tree should be removed. For weighing repair against removal, see the damaged tree removal decision framework.
A Small, Young Tree That Tipped Over
A small, young tree is the one case where standing a fallen tree back up is realistic. USDA Climate Hubs lists it as a tactic for developed urban sites, usually for newly planted trees or trees less than 4 inches in diameter, with stakes or guy wires for support until the root system is structurally stable.
Support should be temporary and flexible. In The Myth of Staking, WSU Extension horticulturist Linda Chalker-Scott recommends placing stakes as low as possible but no higher than two-thirds the height of the tree, using flexible ties that allow movement, and removing all staking material after the roots have established, which can be as early as a few months but should be no longer than one growing season. WSU’s Pacific Northwest Gardener’s Handbook adds that stakes left on more than a year can slow root growth or lead to slow or asymmetrical trunk growth.
Improper staking defeats the purpose. The Myth of Staking also notes that improper staking replaces a supportive trunk and root system, and that when the stakes are removed, the lack of trunk and root development makes those trees prime candidates for breakage or blow-down.
A Tree That Fell Because of Root Disease
Root disease is fungal decay of a tree’s root system, and it can bring a tree down in wind before the crown shows much sign of trouble. WSU Hortsense warns that trees damaged by laminated root rot may be wind-thrown due to loss of anchoring roots before above-ground symptoms are obvious, especially west of the Cascades, and that infected trees are considered hazardous and extremely prone to wind damage.
Species matters. According to WSU’s Pacific Northwest Gardener’s Handbook, laminated root disease (Phellinus sulphurascens) is the most commonly occurring root disease in western Washington, and it spreads primarily through root-to-root contact. WSU Hortsense notes that Douglas-fir, grand fir and mountain hemlock are highly susceptible and are usually killed by the disease, while native pines and cedars, including western redcedar, are considered tolerant, and hardwoods such as maple and alder are immune.
The fallen tree often carries the evidence. WSU notes that root-diseased trees often fall over easily, leaving few fine roots on the stump. In the early stages of laminated root rot, freshly cut stumps within about 3 feet of the soil surface show reddish-brown semicircular stains that fade when exposed to the air, and in infected wood the annual rings separate easily into sheets. Armillaria root rot leaves different clues: honey-colored mushrooms often grow near the base of infected trees in the fall, and white thread-like masses of the fungus may be found beneath the bark.
Root disease also matters for the trees still standing. WSU’s handbook notes that root rots cannot be treated by chemical means and that infected stumps and roots can harbor the pathogen for decades, so the disease should be considered a resident of the site. Susceptible trees near one that failed from root disease deserve an inspection. The visual field guide to fungal tree diseases in western Washington and the guide to evergreens turning brown cover the crown symptoms on standing conifers.
A Tree Hung Up on Another Tree, a Roof or Wires
A hung-up tree is a broken or uprooted tree that is resting on another tree, a structure or a line instead of the ground. The USDA Forest Service field guide to tree risk assessment for Oregon and Washington says any tree or tree part that is hung up in another tree has a very high failure potential, and its Tier 1 table rates broken or uprooted trees supported by other trees as very high for all species and sizes.
Hung-up trees store energy in ways that are hard to read from the ground. OSHA warns that young trees that other trees have fallen against act like spring poles and can propel back, and it advises avoiding felling trees into other trees or objects where possible, because branches and objects may get thrown back toward the tree cutter.
When a tree is on or against a power line, the line comes first. Tacoma Power says to stay at least 30 feet from a downed power line, call 911, and always assume the line is energized, and it takes reports of a broken line or broken power pole at 253-502-8602 (Tacoma Power outages and safety). Pierce County likewise warns that downed power lines may still be energized. OSHA tells cleanup workers to stay at least 10 feet from overhead power lines unless they are deenergized and visibly grounded. Pacific Arboriculture does not do utility line work, but it does work on trees adjacent to power lines.
Why Trees Uproot in the South Sound
Saturated Soil and Winter Wind
Saturated soil is ground holding all the water it can, and federal guidance ties it to wind-driven root failure: the USDA Forest Service field guide to tree risk assessment for Oregon and Washington links significant leans to high winds that cause root wrenching, often associated with saturated soils. Pierce County warns that as rain saturates the ground, there is an increased risk of downed trees and debris, downed utility lines and landslides, and the City of Auburn notes that severe windstorms regularly occur in the fall and winter. Auburn also flags straight-line winds from thunderstorms, which can cause extensive damage to trees and down power lines.
Forest research in western Washington shows the same pattern. In the Westside Type N Buffer Characteristics, Integrity and Function Study, three storms with winds greater than 60 mph occurred during years 4 and 5 after harvest, including one of the strongest storms on record, and wind was the dominant mortality agent in both the reference and buffer patches. For how windstorms damage trees in general, see when trees topple: windstorm damage and recovery.
Shallow, Spreading Root Plates
A root plate is the mass of roots and soil that lifts out of the ground when a tree uproots, and for Douglas-fir it is broad rather than deep. The WSU Skagit County article calls the root wad of a wind-blown Douglas-fir pancake-like and points out that the idea of roots descending dozens of feet into the ground is a misconception. USDA Forest Service urban guidance defines the critical root radius, the part of the root system nearest the trunk that is critical for stability, as 1.5 feet per inch of trunk diameter at breast height, an area that is usually beyond the dripline. A tree 20 inches in diameter has a critical root radius of 30 feet.
Trees Newly Exposed to Wind
An exposed tree is one that lost the shelter of the trees around it, through clearing, development or a neighbor’s failure. The WSU Skagit County article notes that a tree’s ability to withstand heavy gusts, especially during saturated ground conditions, can be compromised by loss of protection from neighboring trees, and that weakened trees, once protected when a stand was intact, are suddenly subjected to winds that could topple them. WSU Extension describes the same pattern when forests are cleared for housing development: the few tall, skinny trees left on the lots tend to come down in the first good windstorm because they have lost the supportive protection of the surrounding trees.
The effect lasts. The USDA Forest Service field guide to tree risk assessment for Oregon and Washington says tree removals expose remaining trees to new wind patterns, and that this heightened vulnerability to windthrow can persist for several years. The storm prevention guide covers what can be done before the next storm.
Damaged, Undermined or Decayed Roots
Undermined roots are roots that have lost the soil around them to erosion, high water or digging. The USDA Forest Service field guide to tree risk assessment for Oregon and Washington lists erosion, seasonally high water or flooding, and excavation or construction as causes, notes that exposed roots reduce anchor points and load-bearing capacity, and says cracked, broken or mechanically severed roots can result in failures. Its Tier 1 table rates a tree with 25 to 50 percent of its structural roots remaining in the ground as medium failure potential and one with less than 25 percent remaining as high. USDA Forest Service urban guidance rates a tree as a high risk of failure when more than 40% of the roots within the critical root radius are damaged, decayed, severed or dead. The hazard tree assessment guide explains how those defects are evaluated.
What to Do After a Tree Uproots
- Stay back and keep others back. King County advises staying away from storm-damaged areas, especially fallen power lines and flooded roadways. Around a standing tree that has started to tip, keep people out of the failure zone, which the USDA Forest Service field guide sets at 1 to 1.5 times the tree’s height.
- Treat every wire as live. If a tree has brought down a power line, stay at least 30 feet away, call 911 and always assume the line is energized, per Tacoma Power. In Tacoma, report a broken line or power pole at 253-502-8602; elsewhere, report it to the electric utility that serves the property.
- Report trees blocking public roads. In Tacoma, report fallen trees in rights-of-way through Tacoma FIRST 311 by dialing 311 inside city limits. In unincorporated King County, the 24/7 Road Helpline takes reports of trees over the roadway at 206-477-8100, and its page says to call 9-1-1 in an emergency. Pierce County takes reports of roadway flooding, downed trees and landslides 24/7 at PierceCountyWa.gov/Works or (253) 798-6000.
- Know who handles cleanup. The City of Tacoma makes abutting property owners responsible for fallen trees in planting strips; Public Works removes only the sections blocking the street or sidewalk and leaves the debris in the planting strip for the owner to arrange disposal. The City of Renton post-windstorm guidance says the property owner is responsible for clearing trees and branches that fell from private property.
- Leave trunks under tension to trained crews. OSHA tells workers to plan each cut and watch for objects under tension, and warns that young trees bent under fallen trees can act like spring poles and propel back.
- Do not try to pull a large tree back upright. USDA Climate Hubs describes re-standing as an option usually for newly planted trees or trees less than 4 inches in diameter. A larger root-sprung tree is, in USDA Forest Service terms, often a failure in progress.
- Deal with downed Douglas-fir promptly. WSU warns that several large Douglas-firs downed by a winter windstorm could let the Douglas-fir beetle become established; cutting them into shorter lengths promptly speeds drying so the wood cannot serve as a food source.
- Check the trees still standing. USDA Forest Service urban guidance calls for additional inspections after severe storm events, and trees newly exposed by a neighbor’s fall have lost the protection they grew up with.
- Sort out insurance early. See whether homeowners insurance covers tree removal before scheduling cleanup.
When to Call an Arborist
Call an ISA Certified Arborist right away if any of these show up after a storm:
- A tree that is newly leaning, especially with cracked, heaved or mounded soil at its base
- Roots lifting, or broken roots showing, on the side of the trunk away from the lean
- A lean of 15 degrees or more on a tree that can reach the house, driveway, street or a play area
- A tree or large limb hung up in another tree or resting on a roof
- A tree touching or leaning toward power lines, after the utility has been called
- A Douglas-fir, grand fir or hemlock that fell easily with few fine roots on the stump, or honey-colored mushrooms at the base of nearby trees in fall
- Trees left newly exposed after a neighboring tree or a stand of trees came down
- Several large downed Douglas-firs on the property
Pacific Arboriculture handles 24/7 emergency tree removal and storm damage cleanup, tree removal, tree risk assessment for trees that are still standing, arborist reports and consultations, pruning for storm-damaged crowns, and stump grinding once the trunk is cleared. For Auburn-specific steps, see emergency tree removal in Auburn, WA; for ice and snow damage, see managing ice storm damaged trees. Pricing context is in the tree removal cost estimator.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a large uprooted tree be pulled back upright?
Re-standing is generally limited to small trees. USDA Climate Hubs describes standing fallen trees back up with stakes or guy wires as an option usually for newly planted trees or trees less than 4 inches in diameter. For larger trees, the USDA Forest Service field guide for Oregon and Washington says root-sprung trees are often considered failures in progress, and failure potential depends on the share of sound structural roots still in the ground.
How small does a tree need to be to stand it back up?
USDA Climate Hubs describes re-standing as an option usually for newly planted trees or trees less than 4 inches in diameter. The tree is supported with stakes or guy wires until its root system is structurally stable. WSU staking guidance keeps stakes as low as possible and no higher than two-thirds of the tree’s height, with all staking material removed within one growing season.
What does root-sprung mean?
A root-sprung tree is a standing tree whose roots have been partially pulled out of the ground. The USDA Forest Service field guide to tree risk assessment for Oregon and Washington says root-sprung trees are highly susceptible to failure because the anchoring capacity of the roots is compromised, and that these trees are often considered failures in progress. A recent lean with disturbed or heaving soil at the base is a common sign.
Is a tree that started leaning after a storm dangerous?
A tree that started leaning after a storm can be very dangerous. USDA Forest Service urban guidance says a new lean may indicate a high risk of failure, and the Oregon and Washington field guide rates any lean with freshly disturbed soil or root pulling as very high failure potential. Keep people out of a zone of 1 to 1.5 times the tree’s height until an arborist assesses it.
How can you tell a new lean from an old lean?
An old lean often shows a corrected top: the tree has grown a vertical top and reaction wood, which the USDA Forest Service field guide associates with lower failure potential. A new lean often shows at the base, with soil mounding, soil cracking, root lifting, or root breakage on the far side of the lean, according to USDA Forest Service urban tree risk guidance.
Why did a healthy-looking Douglas-fir fall over in the wind?
A healthy-looking Douglas-fir can fall because of root disease, shallow roots or new exposure. WSU Hortsense warns that trees with laminated root rot may be wind-thrown before above-ground symptoms are obvious, especially west of the Cascades. WSU Extension also notes that even big trees have essentially shallow roots, and that trees losing the protection of neighboring trees face winds that could topple them.
Should neighboring trees be checked after one uproots?
Neighboring trees should be checked after one uproots. USDA Forest Service urban guidance calls for additional inspections after severe storm events. Trees left exposed by a neighbor’s fall lose wind protection, and laminated root disease, the most common root disease in western Washington, spreads primarily through root-to-root contact, so susceptible trees near a root-diseased failure are at risk too.
What should be done if a tree falls on a power line?
If a tree falls on a power line, the line comes first: Tacoma Power says to stay at least 30 feet from a downed power line, call 911, and always assume the line is energized. In Tacoma, broken lines and poles can be reported to Tacoma Power at 253-502-8602. Pacific Arboriculture does not do utility line work, but it does work on trees adjacent to power lines. See emergency tree removal and storm damage cleanup.
Who is responsible for a fallen tree in a Tacoma planting strip?
The City of Tacoma makes abutting property owners responsible for maintaining the right-of-way safely, including fallen trees in planting strips. Tacoma Public Works removes only the sections of downed trees blocking the street or sidewalk, and the tree debris is placed in the planting strip by the owner’s property for the property owner to arrange disposal.
Who removes a tree that falls across a county road?
In unincorporated King County, the 24/7 Road Helpline takes reports of trees over the roadway at 206-477-8100 or 1-800-527-6237, and the county says to call 9-1-1 in an emergency. In Pierce County, roadway flooding, downed trees and landslides can be reported 24/7 at PierceCountyWa.gov/Works or (253) 798-6000. Inside Tacoma, fallen trees in rights-of-way go to Tacoma FIRST 311.
Does a downed Douglas-fir need to be cleaned up quickly?
A downed Douglas-fir should be dealt with promptly when several large ones come down. WSU’s Pacific Northwest Gardener’s Handbook warns that multiple Douglas-firs greater than eight inches in diameter downed by a winter windstorm could allow the Douglas-fir beetle to become established. Cutting the trees into shorter lengths promptly after they fall speeds drying so they cannot serve as a food source.
Can root rot be treated so a conifer stays standing?
Root rot in a conifer cannot be treated by chemical means, according to WSU’s Pacific Northwest Gardener’s Handbook, and infected stumps and roots can harbor the pathogen for decades. WSU Hortsense considers trees infected with laminated root rot hazardous and extremely prone to wind damage, so a susceptible tree near a target needs an arborist’s risk assessment rather than a wait-and-see approach.
Pacific Arboriculture is a tree care company in Auburn, WA, with six ISA Certified Arborists serving 21 cities across the South Sound, including Auburn, Renton, Tacoma, Kent and Federal Way. After a storm, the options include emergency tree removal and storm damage cleanup, tree removal, a tree risk assessment for trees that are still standing, and stump grinding once the trunk is gone. Pacific Arboriculture does not do utility line work, but it does work on trees adjacent to power lines. Request a free quote.
